![]() ![]() The app offers a number of professional-level tools, including curves, selective color, and batch editing. In addition to offering full RAW editing, it also lets you separately edit the foreground and background of a portrait mode photo and adjust the amount of blur. Darkroom ( iOS)ĭarkroom is a full-featured photo editor for iOS designed for both iPhones and iPads that even includes keyboard support with shortcut commands on the iPad. We’ve rounded up the best RAW-compatible mobile apps for both Android and iOS, each of which takes a unique approach to shooting, editing, and managing RAW photos on your phone. In fact, both iOS and Android support RAW photo capture out of the box.īut to take your mobile photography even further, you’ll need an app that can really put those files to use. But thanks to increasingly capable smartphone cameras and clever developers, it’s now possible to shoot RAW photos on your smartphone. ![]() It truly is like a negative in that regard.A RAW photo offers better image quality than a JPEG, but capturing RAW images was once a feature reserved for only DSLRs and other high-end cameras. The beauty of a RAW file is that you can adjust all you want and then start over by going back to when you imported without altering the original file. You will find that the images are more robust-for lack of a better term-, and you can apply more effect without causing unnatural looking images-use your own judgment here, it’s your image. I’ve seen prints made with this system first hand, and they are amazing.Īt this point you should have a TIFF file that was converted with RPP or Monochrome2DNG, or the RAW file with the color cast removed using another photo processor. I’m currently setting up an Epson 7900 to use with the Piezogrophy print system. I will use RPP from within LR to convert the images that I want to print to paper to achieve the finest details. I have a preset in LR that removes the color cast by sliding the saturation slider to zero, and then it adds some minimal sharpening. You can create a preset in either Lightroom or Photoshop (or most any editing software) to remove the color cast during import, or use a batch process. I imagine that you can do all of this and more. As far as PhotoShop goes, I don’t have any information because I don’t use the program. The only thing you will not be able to do is use the Hue, Saturation & Luminance sliders to colorize an image, since there is no color in the RAW file. If you like to tint your images, you can use the split tone adjustments in LR. The Sony app that comes with the camera can be used also. The color cast is due to the camera’s processor thinking that it sees in color. Simply slide the saturation slider to the left in most any image processor. If you don’t use one of the apps above, you’ll need to remove the magenta color cast. I find that with the full size sensors LR does a pretty good job on these monochrome files even though it processes it as a color image. You should read the manual to learn about the details of the program. The app comes with a manual that is quite good, and a plugin for Lightroom when you contribute. The app has several de-mosaic algorithms to choose from for when you want to work in the color world. You can turn on the color feature of the app again by changing the true portion of that line to false. Download RPP here, install the app, and then run this line in the Terminal app:ĭefaults write NoCFA -bool true RPP can be set to process the raw file without applying a de-mosaic algorithm by a simple command line in the Terminal app. Go to the a7RII(m) sample gallery to download a file converted by Monochrome2DNG and the Sony RAW file and run it through your processor and see how well it works.Īnother option is Raw Photo Processor (RPP). The program will also do batch processing, so converting a day’s shoot is easy. I use Monochrome2DNG to convert my RAW files. All of the standard post processing software see the DNG files converted with this app as a monochrome file, so there are no strange artifacts due to your post processing app thinking it is an RGB file and applying a de-mosaic algorithm to the file. I find it works very well, as do others that have used it. Everything starts from a RAW file, this extracts maximum detail and information from the scene, and gives more room for adjustments in post processing. Most of what I state here is with these programs in mind. I also use some of the NIK software suite. Not to say composting and layering with PhotoShop are bad, I just haven’t ventured in that direction as of yet. I’m of the traditional school that comes from having spent a lot of time in a darkroom. I use Monochrome2DNG, FastRawViewer, Raw Photo Processor, and LightRoom for all of my post processing. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |